Ups and downs of life in a small Alpine nation

Migros supermarkets

Like many Swiss, when I get hungry I often visit the supermarket Migros. A true Swiss institution, its stores are warehouse-sized and dotted with improbable density throughout Switzerland's cities (there are 40 in the tiny Canton of Geneva alone).

I don't, however, go there to purchase a snack. I go there because I've found its grey, off-season fruit and multipack own brands are a great way to stem a hunger without spending a rappen. The food on display really is as unappetising as the plastic it's invariably over-packaged in.

Now, my Swiss co-residents aren't famous gastronomes - or at least they don't go on about it like certain latinate neighbours to the south and west. But, like most Europeans living in a good agricultural climate, they do know how to eat well.

But - and here's the thing - they seem to love Migros.

Initially this baffled me. How could the sophisticated Helvetians even think of buying into Migros' dull, bluey cheval steaks, or its cold, stony avocados with a two-hour edibility window, before which they deflate into a squidgy useless mess?

To understand the Migros phenomenon, you have to go back to 1925 and meet the smart, kindly man who founded the empire. Gottlieb Duttweiler was an entrepreneur who began driving a truck around remote parts Switzerland selling six items he thought essential (but which actually make up quite bizarre shopping basket: coffee, rice, sugar, noodles, coconut oil and soap).

Duttweiler was a moralist, and as the business grew, he ensured it did so in keeping with his own sense of how responsible businesses should conduct themselves. Still today the supermarkets don't sell alcohol (although related Migros-owned enterprises do) and a proportion of profits is earmarked for reinvestment in the educational arm, the Migros School (thoughts on which will certainly follow).

The tragedy is that, while, yes, Duttweiler was a good, altruistic man, his principles have been weakened by market forces to a point where they now mean very little. The supermarkets are run as corporations. And, like so many other corporations with eyes only for profits, this means the customer experience - and product - stinks.

Duttweiler and his Migros are gone. The brand has been commandeered by profiteers with no respect for his ideals, particularly the bit about providing you with high-quality essential ingredients. It should be abandoned in favour of the far superior alternatives you have in Coop and Manor.

At least that's how I see it. The guys at Sorgim seem to agree.

Tour de Suisse in Lugano, TI

The Tour de Suisse is the fourth biggest event on world cycling's calendar. I love it for it's unfailingly stunning courses, tough mountains and short duration. (It lasts a little over a week compared to three for the other big tours, meaning you can follow it beginning to end without losing track, or interest.)

Yesterday the race got started with a fine mountain time trial of just over 7km around Lugano's lakefront and the nestling slopes of Monte Brè.

Even as the race got underway I was able to walk the route, with one of the world's greatest athletes gasping (on the climb) or swooshing (on the descent) past me roughly per minute. I hoped they, like me, were able to enjoy the grand lake views, the abundance of richly-scented honeysuckle and roses and a friendly 'buongiorno' from the locals who lined the streets. Probably not, on balance.

Either way, I could only take my hat off to the local organisers who laid on such a spectacle in their nonchalant Swiss way. Close the streets to pedestrians just because of an international sports event? Not on their watch. I recalled the brusque policemen at the Tour de France's London prologue as I strolled, occasionally having to leap aside as another childhood hero almost blasted me out of the street.

I made it down just in time to see Lance Armstrong set off and catch the last 30 or so riders getting home. My time of just under 2 hours wasn't going to bother Lance and the big guns, but I was happy with it.

One thing though: these guys love Fabian Cancellara far too much. Ok, he's a good time triallist and good in the hills. But Mercx he ain't.

(All this from a man who comes from a country who doggedly supported Chris Boardman out of blind patriotism throughout his dimly-lit career. Ok, ok..)

National pride - in the bin

New today - patriotic bins all over Geneva!

A foretelling of where Switzerland's World Cup hopes will end up before the group stages are out? Or a wholly-justified expression of national pride in the Swiss waste disposal system?

Maybe both?

Swiss football team

Thinking that at the very least it would be good for a few laughs, I made my way along to the Stade de Genève on Saturday night to see what I assumed would be the Swiss side getting steamrollered by their neighbours to the south and current world champs Italy.

The Swiss were not nearly as bad as I was expecting. In fact they were rather good; organised and fit, running rings around the lacklustre Italians for much of the first half. The 1-1 result was about right, and most agreed the Swiss were the better side.

Gokhan Inhler, currently at Udinese scored a credible drive from outside the box beating several defenders and reserve keeper Marchetti, although it's unlikely it would have beaten Buffon, who coach Lippi wisely kept out of harm's way.

Most impressive was FC Basel striker and Swiss captain Alex Frei (wearing 9), who won several challenges with deft footwork that pretty much outclassed everyone else on the field. He missed Euro 2008 through injury, and I for one would not be remotely surprised to see him featuring heavily in Switzerland's SA2010 campaign, as long as it may last. Group H is tough (Spain, Chile and Honduras) but I'm tempted to have a flutter on the Helvetians reaching the quarters.

The security forces were clearly not expecting trouble, as most of them were over 50 and had been living the good life. Therefore they were rather out of their depth when a well-build Algerian guy invaded the pitch and then tried to run out. He almost made it, by sprinting up the steps towards the oldest looking guard, possibly attracted by his large moustache. Unfortunately for our Algerian friend he turned out to be the head of security and had him on the ground, barely uncrossing his arms. That said, the guy was being pretty hectic and there were lots of youngsters around, so there's a strong argument to say they should have got him under control more quickly.

But, football aside and tough Algerians aside, CHF 100 for row 17 at an international friendly struck me as reasonable, and the fans were as polite, endearing and in tune during the national anthems as you'd expect.

As much as I appreciate the Swiss' ability to melt cheese and yodel, it was pleasing to be surprised by their quality in an arean where, let's face it, I was not being unfairly pessimistic to expect the worst.

(Here's a review of the match by someone who knows what they're talking about)